Corners and Borders Embroidered by Machine
Fun design elements like borders and corners may give projects of all kinds a great look. Corners follow angles, which are typically 90°, while borders follow edges. While some corners are meant to stand alone, others are made to match borders, which enables an embroiderer to extend a border around a pillow’s circumference, along the hem and center front of an item of clothing, etc.
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There are basically two sorts of boundaries. Some are intended to be stitched in a way that ensures specific places match precisely to form a continuous design (A & B). Others don’t need to be precisely aligned; they are made to be sewn or fitted together sequentially. The latter is simpler to use for a novice.
To begin, print multiple copies of the design templates and draw a positioning line along the edge that will be embroidered. Align one template with the placement line at an anchor point, such the center front (put the corner first if you’re placing it on something like a jacket). Next, insert another at a different anchor point, such the side seam. Divide the remaining design equally among the anchor points. To make the design fit better, you can extend or decrease it a little bit, but no more than 10%. Recall that while the designs in this kind of design don’t have to be precisely continuous, the spacing between them should be constant. When you’re ready, use the templates to line the embroidery machine and keep going along the full edge.
Continuous borders are a little trickier to align, so make use of all the tools at your disposal. While templates are a fantastic place to start, it may be quite useful if your machine can also align the needle at locations other than the center point. A lot of continuous border patterns are digitally stitched with the last thread placed exactly where the start stitch should be on the subsequent stitchout—that is, directly on the design’s edge. Being able to align along an edge might come in very handy in this situation. Additionally, you may indicate the spot where the last stitch will end and gently move the needle to begin there. Use software or your screen to merge designs if you have the capability to do it digitally. You’ll be thrilled with the outcome, but correctly matching continuous borders will take some skill. You may need to make few test stitches to become acclimated to the pattern.
Embroidery on Transparent or Lightweight Fabrics
It might be a little difficult to embroider on sheer and light-colored materials, but it is totally possible. The first thing to remember is that a lightweight embroidered design is what you should always go for. This is due to the fact that intricate patterns may obstruct the fabric’s natural drape, giving it a rigidity that may hang awkwardly. For optimal effects, go for open or light stitching, or place thicker embroidery in parts like the neckline where drape isn’t crucial. The stabilizer is another component that may cause drapery to malfunction. Water-soluble stabilizer is therefore the ideal choice for these textiles, particularly the sheer ones. After sewing, it may be completely taken out, letting the cloth drape beautifully and, in the case of transparent materials, removing any visible backing. Lastly, use a fine needle—a 70/10, for example—to avoid big, noticeable needle holes. For sheer fabric, wound your bobbin with matching needle thread if you believe the finished piece will move sufficiently to reveal the back sometimes.
You might wish to use temporary spray glue or self-adhesive stabilizer to attach your fabric to the stabilizer if it is very slick or prone to shifting. Another option is to stiffen the cloth for the embroidery process by using starch or a chemical such as Terial Magic liquid stabilizer. These items stabilize the cloth to prevent it from shifting during sewing, and once stitching is finished, they are removed.
Ways to Use Machine Embroidery in Your Quilts
There are many different methods to combine machine embroidery and quilting, which is a terrific combo. I’ll go over some of the more effective techniques to begin going.
Making one or more blocks with embroidery is perhaps the simplest method of incorporating it into a quilt. Embroidering over piecing can make the overall appearance too cluttered, therefore it will look best if the block in question is a solid piece, such a square, rectangle, or along a large border or sashing. For your embroidered blocks, choose for low-volume or solid fabrics because busy or detailed designs can make the stitching stand out. Make use of a medium-weight, slightly flexible cut-away stabilizer. Either embroider the pattern onto the block, or embroider the yardage and then cut off the block, depending on your desire. After chopping off any extra stabilizer, assemble the quilt top as usual, then go on quilting.
Using a machine to do the actual quilting is another excellent method of incorporating embroidery into a quilt. This can really help those who have trouble with free-motion stippling. To begin, look for a design created especially for quilting. Quilting designs are often line works with continuous stitching; your favorite websites for embroidery designs should have a section dedicated to these designs. They are available in about every pattern you can imagine, including geometric, sashiko, holiday-themed, conventional stippling, and more. Additionally, you may search for designs with light stitching and red or black work, since they are frequently suitable for quilting. Additionally, examine your machine’s built-in designs, since many of them have quilting designs. Look for a design that will accommodate your largest hoop in an effort to minimize the amount of hoopings.
Make the quilt top first, and then proceed as usual to build the quilt sandwich. To use this technique, just hoop the quilt sandwich; no stabilizer is needed. The cloth is stabilized by the layers alone. To account for the thickness of the embroidered surface, use a 90/14 needle. The bobbin thread should be the right color because it will appear on the incorrect side. One by one, stitch the parts, being careful not to leave any pins in the stitching area. Add smaller quilted designs or adjust the design slightly to suit if necessary to fill in the edges.